Goals

Proportions

The goal is to create the appearance of:

• A V-taper

• Show off your physique and arms without looking like you’re trying too hard

• Longer legs

• A shorter torso

Thus creating:

• A taller appearance

• More masculine proportions

Comfort

Comfortable clothes should fit and move with you without making you think about what you’re wearing.

The ideal is to put your clothes on, feel comfortable, and then forget about them. If you’re constantly adjusting your clothes, feeling restricted, overheated, or otherwise aware of them, they’re not comfortable enough.

Basic Tops

Fit

General Fit

• Straight fit
• Shoulders should sit naturally on the shoulders

• Enough room through the chest and body without looking baggy
Test: You should be able to hug yourself without feeling seams dig into your armpits or restricting your movement

• Sleeves should follow the arms without clinging
• Hem should be long enough to stay tucked in when sitting or bending

Avoid

• Oversized fits

• Excessively long hems

• Excessively long sleeves

• Short hems combined with low-rise trousers can expose the lower back and increase the risk of plumber’s crack

Proportions

• Tuck your top into your trousers to show the waistline and make your legs look longer
• Especially useful with high-rise trousers
• Untucked tops should generally end around the hip

T-Shirt

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: white, black, navy and charcoal grey

• Fabric: 100% cotton

• Straight fit

Details

• Short sleeves

• Crew neck with a structured, shape-retaining collar

For Athletic Physiques

• Slim fit

• Sleeves should hug the biceps and end around one-third of the upper arm to emphasize arm size

How to Style

Tuck it into your trousers for a sharper appearance and a taller silhouette

Avoid:
• V-necks, especially deep V-necks. Classic crew necks are more versatile and timeless.

• Cropped T-shirts. It’s just a trend. They are less versatile, and expose the waist when reaching or raising your arms.

• Soft, flimsy collars that lose their shape

• Grey T-shirts if you sweat easily. Sweat is much more visible on grey

Polo Shirt

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: white, navy, black, grey, charcoal grey

• Natural fabrics only

• Fine-knit polos

Details

• Short sleeves

• Large, structured collar that holds its shape after washing

Extra Details

• Mother-of-pearl buttons (look more refined than plastic)

For Athletic Physiques

• Slim fit

• Sleeves should hug the biceps and end around one-third of the upper arm to emphasize arm size

How to Style

• Leave one button undone

• Tuck it into your trousers to clearly show the waistline and make your legs look longer

Avoid

• Piqué. It was originally designed for sports like tennis and has a more casual appearance

Especially if you don’t want to look like a fast-food or retail worker

•Smooth and thin jersey fabric

• Small collars. Looks cheap and lose their shape more easily.

• Unstructured collars. Looks cheap and sloppy, ruin the look completely

Long Sleeve Polo

Same rules as the Polo Shirt

• Less forgiving than a short sleeve polo. Best suited for athletic physiques.
• Usually warmer

Knitted T-Shirt

• Optional upgrade over a basic T-shirt

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: white, navy, black, grey, charcoal grey

• Natural fabrics only

• Fine-knit cotton or merino wool

• Straight fit

Details

• Crew neck with a structured, shape-retaining collar

For Athletic Physiques

• Slim fit

• Sleeves should hug the biceps and end around one-third of the upper arm to emphasize arm size

How to Style

• Best suited for smart casual outfits

• Offers a more refined appearance than a regular jersey T-shirt

Long Sleeve T-Shirt

• Less forgiving than a regular T-shirt. Best suited for athletic physiques.
• Plain and logo-free
• Basic colors: white, black, navy, grey, and charcoal grey
• Fabric: 100% cotton

Details

• Long sleeves
• Crew neck with a structured, shape-retaining collar

Extra Details

• Waffle knit as an optional fabric for added texture

How to Style

Tuck it into your trousers for a sharper appearance and a taller silhouette

Skinny guys look even skinnier in long sleeve t-shirts

Long Sleeve Henley

• Less forgiving than a regular T-shirt. Best suited for athletic physiques.

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: white, black, navy, grey, and charcoal grey

• Fabric: 100% cotton

Details

• Long sleeves
• 2 to 4 button placket
• Structured collar and placket that retain their shape after washing

Extra Details

• Waffle knit as an optional fabric for added texture

• Mother-of-pearl buttons

How to Style

• Leave one or two buttons undone

• Tuck it into your trousers for a sharper appearance and a taller silhouette

Short Sleeve Henley

Same rules as regular T-Shirt

Tank Top

Suitable Styles: Underwear
Seasons: All Seasons

Plain and logo-free
Basic colors: White
Fabric: 100% cotton

Details

Slim fit
Thick shoulder straps
High neckline

How to Style

Wear underneath shirts, knitwear, or sweaters
Helps absorb sweat and protect outer garments

Tank Top(as own piece)

Suitable Styles: Casual, Athleisure
Seasons: Summer

Plain and logo-free
Basic colors: White, Black, Grey
Fabric: 100% cotton

Details

Ribbed fabric
Straight or slim fit
Thick shoulder straps
High neckline

Additional details

• Ribbed fabric

Cons

Demands an athletic physique
Exposes the shoulders to the sun
Looks too casual for most outfits
Less versatile than a T-shirt

For Athletic Physiques

Highlights the shoulders, chest, and arms

How to Style

Best suited for the gym, home

Avoid

•Thin shoulder straps

•Deep scoop necks

•Large logos or graphics

Shirts

Dress Shirt

Suitable Styles: Smart Casual, Business Casual, Classic

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: white, light blue, white stripes, and light blue stripes

• Fabric: 100% cotton

Details

• Large, structured semi-spread collar

• Buttons should match the color of the shirt

• Long enough to stay tucked in

• Minimal stitching and clean construction

Extra Details

• Mother-of-pearl buttons

• French cuffs for a more formal appearance with cufflinks

• Single-needle stitching

• Pattern matching across seams

• Split yoke

• Thick collar and cuff interlining

• High stitch density

How to Style

• Keep it tucked into your trousers

• Pair with dress trousers or chinos

• Wear with a blazer or suit for formal occasions

• Leave the top button undone without a tie

Avoid

• Small or narrow collars

• Collarless designs. You’re not a kung fu master.

• Chest pocket

• Contrast buttons

• Short sleeves

• Loud or busy patterns

• Short-sleeve shirts with ugly patterns. The pinnacle of ugliness, as seen in Superbad (2007)

Linen Shirt

Suitable Styles: Casual, Smart Casual

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: white and light blue

• 100% linen

• Lightweight and breathable, making it ideal for hot weather

Details

• Long sleeves

• Large, structured collar

• Button cuffs

• Natural wrinkles are part of linen’s character

Fit

• Straight fit

How to Style

• Wear tucked for a sharper appearance or untucked for a more relaxed look

• Pair with chinos or linen trousers

• Roll up the sleeves for a more relaxed look

Pants

Fit

• Straight fit
• Hem should have no break or a slight break

Avoid

• Oversized and skinny fits

• Should not hug the thighs

Length

• Stacking at the bottom

Excessive stacking ruins the silhouette, making you look sloppy and shorter

• Ankle pants

Cropped trousers visually cut off the legs at the ankle, making them appear shorter

When sitting, they expose the ankles even more

Especially stupid to wear them in winter

Waist

• Should fit comfortably without requiring a belt

• No excess fabric around the waist

• Sit naturally at the waist without sliding down

Waist Rise

High-Rise

• Sits at or above the natural waist

• Creates the appearance of longer legs

• Stays securely in place throughout the day

• Should not rise significantly above the bellybutton

High-rise trousers are not a new trend. They were the standard for much of the 20th century.

Mid-Rise

• Sits at the natural waist or just below it

• Creates balanced body proportions

• More versatile and easier to find than high-rise

• Comfortable for everyday wear

Low-rise

• Shorten the appearance of the legs

• Make the torso appear longer

• Tend to slide down when sitting or bending

• Can expose underwear or skin

• Increase the risk of plumber’s crack

How Low-rise trousers became popular in the late 1990s and 2000s.

Levi’s introduced lower-rise jeans in the late 1960s and 1970s alongside changing fashion trends.
Calvin Klein made low-rise jeans mainstream in the 1990s through advertising and designer denim.

Sagging

• Ruins body proportions

• Makes the legs appear shorter

• Uncomfortable. Restricts mobility

• Constantly slides down and needs to be pulled up

• Increase the risk of plumber’s crack

Waist Adjustments

Belt Loops

• The most common option
• Designed to be worn with a belt

Side Adjusters (Side Tabs)

• Built-in waist adjusters
• Allow small waist adjustments without a belt
• Cleaner and more elegant appearance
• Hard to find on casual pants

Elastic Waistband

• Stretch panels or full elastic waistband
• Casual appearance

Drawstring Waist

• Adjustable with a cord
• Comfortable and relaxed
• Common on linen and casual trousers
• Less formal

Types of Pants

Jeans

Suitable Styles: Casual, Smart Casual, Streetwear
Seasons: All Seasons

• Plain and logo-free

• Dark blue, medium blue, black, or grey

• 100% cotton

Fit

• Straight fit

• Mid-rise or high-rise

• No break or slight break

Details

• Five-pocket design

• Zipper fly

• Tonal stitching

• Leather patch

How to Style

• Pair with T-shirts, polos, Henleys, knitwear, or casual shirts

• Wear with sneakers, loafers, or boots

Avoid

•Button fly (slower/less convenient to open and close)

• Heavy distressing, rips, or paint splatter

• Fading or whiskering

• Large logos or decorative embroidery

Chinos

Suitable Styles: Casual, Smart Casual, Business Casual
Seasons: All Seasons

• Plain

• Basic colors: beige, khaki, navy, grey, charcoal grey, black, olive

• 100% cotton

Fit

• Straight fit

• Mid-rise or high-rise

• No break or slight break

Details

• Tonal stitching

• Slanted front pockets

• Welt back pockets

• Zipper fly

How to Style

• Pair with T-shirts, polos, Henleys, knitwear, or shirts

• Wear with sneakers, loafers, or boots

• Tuck in your top for a sharper appearance and a taller silhouette

Avoid
• Button fly

• Visible drawstrings or elastic waistbands

Dress Trousers

Suitable Styles: Smart Casual, Business Casual, Classic

Seasons: All Seasons

• The most refined type of trousers

• Excellent drape

Fabric:

• Tropical wool for warm weather

• Flannel wool for autumn and winter

Cons

• Higher maintenance

• Usually more expensive

Details

• Mid or high rise

• Side adjusters

• Single or double pleats

• Straight fit

How to Style

• Pair with polos, shirts, knitwear, blazers, or a suit jacket

• Wear with loafers, derbies, Oxfords, or Chelsea boots

Linen Trousers

Suitable Styles: Casual, Smart Casual

Seasons: Summer

• Lightweight and breathable

• Wrinkle naturally, which is part of the fabric’s character

Cons

• Wrinkles easily

Details

• 100% linen or blends with natural fabrics

• Mid or high rise

• Straight or relaxed fit

Extra details

• Side adjusters

• Single pleats

How to Style

• Pair with polos, T-shirts, linen shirts, or lightweight knitwear

• Wear with loafers, espadrilles, leather sandals, or clean white sneakers

Sweatpants

Suitable Styles: Athleisure, Loungewear
Seasons: All Seasons

• Soft knit fabric designed for comfort

• Best reserved for home, travel, or the gym

• Fabric: 100% cotton

• Mid or high rise

Details

• Straight or relaxed fit

• Elastic waistband with a drawstring

• Open hem

Extra details

• Fabric: wool

How to Style

• Pair with hoodies, sweatshirts, or T-shirts

• Wear with athletic sneakers

Cargo Pants

Suitable Styles: Casual, Streetwear

• Casual trousers with utility pockets

• Primarily designed for utility rather than style

• Rarely look good

Extra details

• Large cargo pockets make outfits look even worse

How to Style

• You don’t. It’s a losing battle.
• Wear them only when practicality matters more than appearance

Joggers

Suitable Styles: Casual, Streetwear

• Tapered trousers with elastic ankle cuffs

• Look sloppy and cheap

• Don’t look good

How to Style

• You don’t. Just skip them entirely

Avoid

• Wearing them

• Distressed skinny cargo jogger jeans. The pinnacle of ugliness

Shorts

Suitable Styles: Resort, Loungewear
Seasons: Summer
• Plain and logo-free
• Basic colors: Beige, White, Navy, Olive, Grey
• Natural fabrics only

Details
• Mid or high rise

• Straight or relaxed fit
• Slightly above the knee

Extra details

• Side adjusters
• Flat front or single pleats

Cons

•Can make the legs look skinny

•Can make you look shorter

•Inferior to full-length trousers in almost every situation

How to Style
•Wear for resorts, and beaches

Avoid

• Shorts with cargo pockets. The bigger the pockets, the worse they look

• Skinny or slim fits

•Very short shorts

•Oversized fits

•Excessively long shorts below the knee

•Jeans shorts

• Long jeans shorts with cargo pockets. The pinnacle of ugliness.

Sweats

Sweatshirt

Suitable Styles: Casual, Streetwear, Athleisure
Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Winter

Plain and logo-free
Basic colors: Grey Melange, Charcoal Grey, Navy, Black
Fabric: 100% cotton

Details

Straight fit
Crew neck with a structured, shape-retaining collar
Ribbed cuffs and hem

How to Style

Pair with jeans, chinos, or sweatpants
Wear with clean white or neutral sneakers

Zip-Up Hoodie

Suitable Styles: Casual, Streetwear, Athleisure

Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Winter

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: Grey Melange, Charcoal Grey, Navy, Black

• Fabric: 100% cotton

Details

• Straight fit

• Structured hood

• Ribbed cuffs and hem

• Silver zipper

• Matching-color hood drawstrings

Extra Details

• Double zipper

• YKK or equivalent high-quality zipper

• Cashmere blend for a softer, more luxurious feel

How to Style

• Pair with T-shirts, jeans, chinos, or sweatpants

Avoid

• Large logos or graphics

• Unnecessary design details

Pullover Hoodie

Same rules as the Zip-Up Hoodie.

Extra Details

• Separate hand-warmer pockets instead of a single kangaroo pocket

Cons

• Less versatile than a zip-up hoodie
• Harder to regulate body temperature (can’t simply unzip it if it’s hot)

Knitwear

Crewneck Sweater

Suitable Styles: Smart Casual, Business Casual, Classic

Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Winter

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: Navy, Grey, Charcoal Grey, Black, Beige

Fabric

• Merino wool

• Lambswool

• Cashmere – softer option

Details

• Crew neck

• Straight fit

• Ribbed cuffs and hem

Knit Styles

•Plain knit (most versatile)

•Cable knit (textured, classic)

•Rib knit (heavier, more structured)

How to Style

• Pair with dress trousers, chinos, or dark jeans

• Wear over a T-shirt or dress shirt

Avoid

• Acrylic or low-quality synthetic fabrics

• Thin fabric

• Questionable prints

V-Neck Sweater

Same rules as the Crewneck Sweater.

Style Variations

• Plain V-neck (most versatile)

• Contrast-trim V-neck (cricket style)

How to Style

•Looks best with a dress shirt rather than a T-shirt

Avoid

• Deep V-necks without a shirt underneath

• Thin fabric

GQ, what have you done? Apparently this was their best look. Didn’t want to do Jim from The Office dirty, but this was the first picture that came up

Turtleneck Sweater

Suitable Styles: Smart Casual, Business Casual, Classic
Seasons: Autumn, Winter

• Plain and logo-free
• Basic colors: Black, Navy, Charcoal Grey, Grey, Beige, Cream

Fabric

• Cotton
• Merino wool
• Lambswool for colder weather
• Cashmere for a softer, more luxurious feel

Details

• Fold-over turtleneck
• Straight fit
• Ribbed cuffs and hem

For Athletic Physiques

• Slim fit
• Can make the shoulders appear narrower
• Very brutal and demanding, revealing all physical flaws

How to Style

• Works best as a layer underneath rather than on its own
• Pair with dress trousers, chinos, or dark jeans
• Wear under a blazer or long coat

Avoid

• Oversized fits

•Overly tight fits. Even with an excellent physique, it can look overly try-hard

Mock Neck Sweater

Same rules as the Turtleneck Sweater.

Quarter-Zip Sweater

Suitable Styles: Smart Casual, Business Casual, Classic

Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Winter

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: Navy, Grey, Charcoal Grey, Black, Beige, Cream

Fabric

• Merino wool

• Lambswool

• Cashmere – softer option

Details

• Quarter-length zipper

• Straight fit

• Ribbed cuffs and hem

Extra Details

• YKK or equivalent high-quality zipper

• Silver zipper

How to Style

• Wear slightly unzipped

• Pair with dress trousers, chinos, or dark jeans

• Wear over a T-shirt or dress shirt

Avoid

• Acrylic or low-quality synthetic fabrics

Cardigans

Zip-Up Cardigan

Suitable Styles: Smart Casual, Casual, Classic
Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Winter

• Plain and logo-free
• Basic colors: Navy, Grey, Charcoal Grey, Beige

Fabric

• Cotton
• Merino wool
• Lambswool for colder weather
• Cashmere for a softer, more luxurious feel

Details

• Full-length zipper
• Structured collar
• Straight fit
• Ribbed cuffs and hem
• Silver zipper

Extra Details

• Double zipper
• YKK or equivalent high-quality zipper

How to Style

• Wear over a T-shirt, polo, or dress shirt
• Pair with chinos, dress trousers, or dark jeans
Style Variations

•Plain knit

•Quilted

Avoid
• Acrylic or low-quality synthetic fabrics

• Cheap alternatives

Button-Up Cardigan

Suitable Styles: Smart Casual, Business Casual, Classic

Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Winter

• Plain and logo-free

• Basic colors: Navy, Grey, Charcoal Grey, Black, Beige, Cream

Fabric

• Merino wool

• Cotton for warmer weather

• Lambswool for colder weather

• Cashmere for a softer, more luxurious feel

Details

• Button-front closure

• Straight fit

• Ribbed cuffs and hem
Extra Details

• Mother-of-pearl or horn buttons

Style Variations
•Full-Placket Cardigan

• V-neck

• Shawl collar

Details
• Thick Lapel
• Chunky Knit

How to Style

• Wear over a T-shirt, polo, or dress shirt

• Pair with dress trousers, chinos, or dark jeans

Avoid

• Acrylic or low-quality synthetic fabrics

• Long cardigans – another trend that died pretty quickly. They look feminine and always remind me of basic women who build their whole personality around coffee

Underwear

Boxer Briefs

• Plain and logo-free

• Fabric: 90 to 95% modal, 5 to 10% elastane

• Neutral colors: Black, Charcoal Grey, Navy

Details

• Comfortable, supportive fit

• Soft elastic waistband

• Flat seams to reduce irritation

• 100% cotton gusset

Avoid

• Boxers

• Briefs

• Loud colors or patterns

• Synthetic fabrics

• A size that is too small

High-quality boxer briefs are worth every penny. They’re next-level comfort. Once you try them, you’ll never want to go back.

Socks

Crew socks

• Plain and logo-free
• Fabric: natural only
• Neutral colors: Grey, Charcoal Grey, Navy, Beige

Details

• Comfortable, secure fit
• Soft, breathable fabric
• Reinforced heel and toe
• Flat or smooth toe seam
• Non-binding cuff socks, often marketed as diabetic socks

Avoid

• Black socks, look cheap and less versatile
• White socks, get dirty quickly and less versatile

• Loud colors or patterns

• Thin, flimsy fabrics
• Loose socks that slide down

• Overly tight elastic

• Cheap, scratchy materials
• Worn out socks with holes. Throw them away

Ankle Socks

Seasons: Summer

• Plain and logo-free
• Fabric: cotton
• Neutral colors: Grey, Charcoal Grey, Navy, Beige

Details

• Ankle-length
• Comfortable, secure fit
• Soft, breathable fabric
• Reinforced heel and toe
• Flat or smooth toe seam
• Elastic cuff that stays in place

For 25°C+ summer, I’d prioritize very thin, lightweight socks
• Viscose
• Modal
• Tencel/Lyocell

For loafers, use no-show socks
• Low ankle socks with loafers create an awkward visual break

Swim Trunks

Suitable Styles: Resort
Seasons: Summer

• Plain and logo-free
• Basic colors: Navy, Black, White, Olive, Grey

Fabric

• Fast-drying nylon
• Medium to heavy-weight fabric for better structure

Details

• Straight fit
• Mid-thigh length

Extra Details

• Side adjusters
• Zippered pockets

How to style
• Wear with a lightweight linen shirt or go shirtless
• Go shirtless. It’s your chance to show off the work you’ve put in at the gym
• Don’t wear them for long periods. They’re synthetic, so they’re meant for swimming, not everyday wear

Avoid

• Large logos or graphics

• Bright neon colors

•Thin, see-through fabrics

I’m not going to show it. Just believe me, it’s bad.

Outwear

Harrington Jacket

Suitable Styles: Casual, Smart Casual, Business Casual
Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Summer

• Plain and logo-free
• Basic colors: Navy, Beige, Olive, Black, Grey
• Fabric: 100% cotton

Fit

• Straight fit

Details

• Ribbed cuffs and hem
• Silver zipper
• Slanted side pockets with button or flap closure
• Lightweight construction

Extra Details

• Double zipper
• YKK or equivalent high-quality zipper
• Storm flap – used to shield the upper back from rain and wind while allowing additional ventilation

How to Style

• Wear over a T-shirt, polo, Henley, or dress shirt
• Pair with jeans, chinos, or dress trousers

Style Variations
• Stand collar with a two-button closure